Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
  • ISBN: 9781472151414
  • Author: Finnegan, William
    Format: Paperback
    Publication Date: 10 May 2016
Price: £9.99

£7.99

WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016

WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.